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The Making of a Sakizo Inspired Historical Gown [Part 2]

18 Feb

 

 

jeff potoSo, two things about this costume, the first being that the titles have changed! I originally thought it this some French inspired design, but peoples insisted upon Italian Renaissance, and then others were saying it looks Russian so now i’m not even sure. I give up on attempting to label this dress.

The second thing is that this dress is technically unfinished. It isn’t accurate to the artwork I based it off of at all, but I like how it looks now and there isn’t much I want to change. Some might view this as lazyness…but honestly i’m just pleased with it. I feel like adding more stuff will take away from it and I don’t want that. So I suppose this is a Sakizo illustration INSPIRED design instead of an actual cosplay of her work.

Check out the previous the-making-of post relating to this costume!

[Part 1]

With that said….Moving on. 

Sleeves! These were by far the most difficult and time consuming part of this costume. The sleeves are made up of five main pieces, two small ones that lay over the shoulder, two puffy sleeve portions, and the elbow-to-wrist piece.

I put on the bodice and measured over my shoulder to find the length the top two sleeve pieces needed to be.  Then a drafted out how I thought they might look and hoped for the best. I made a mock up and altered it a little bit, but for the most part it was good!

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The top most piece is actually a base that piped strips get sewn onto. It looked like this when cut out.

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I cut out 2.75″ strips of my red sateen and folded over 1/2″ on each side giving me a 1.75 inch strip. Then I sewed piping onto each side. This part killed me since I actually had to use pins (so many), which I try to avoid as much as possible.

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Each strip was cut to the proper size, and eventually, sewn into place by stitching across each end.

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I machine stitched lace onto one side. The other side was folded over and hand sewn down, so no stitching actually shows.

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The second piece was much easier to deal with, as it was quite simple. It’s made from interfaced silk with an overlay of the same gold lace I used on the skirt. It was hand sewed to the other pieces lining so once again, no stitching is visible.

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Piece three and four were the most challenging, and took many frustrating hours to create. The actual pattern for these is a very simple one, and was drafted quite quickly and easily. I once again kind of lucked out on the pattern I drafted, I had to make it a little smaller, but for the most part I was happy with it.

Each sleeve was cut from red sateen and has two darts added to remove a bit of volume. Lines were marked out  four inches from eachother to create seven even rows. A gold x ivory twisted cording was hand sewn over each line.

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Then it came time to add poofs! Puffed trim, although quite simple in theory is one of my least favorite things to make. Here is a tutorial sheet describing how they can be made.

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For the sleeve puffs I used seven inch wide strips of silk that were double iron-folded on each side, creating a five inch wide strip with finished edges.

Then I hand gathered the strip every four inches to create very circular puffs. It took a lot, and I mean A LOT of testing to get a size that looked okay, but in the end I’m pretty pleased with it.

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The puffs get pinned in place

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And then sewn down. Once they are sewn into place I lightly press my iron over them, this way they stay more orderly.

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Each side of these were gathered with the zig zag method, and eventually stuffed with “doughnuts” made of quilt batting. They are like pillows which is kind of awesome.

The final, and easiest piece of the sleeve was patterned via draping. I took a piece of muslin and laid it over my arm, then pinned it until it was tight.

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Super pro patterning method right there.

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I cut that out of my red sateen and added cute little organza ruffles, trim, and piping to the point that lays over my hand. I also hand sewed a six inch zipper into the wrist so it fits tightly.

This is how one of the sleeves looked all sewn together

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…..

The bodice of my dress finally got fancied up, I added three mm rhinestones down the center of each red stripe and sewed on a pretty organza ruffle.

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Then I created MORE puffed trim and sewed that on, with pearl trim covering the gathers. I also created a properly sized flower trim, made of fake flowers that I cut apart and re-glued together. Flat backed pearls were glued down in the centers, and between the petals to make it look fancy.

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And how they looked sewn together.

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Once the bodice was finished I created a “roll” to go beneath it. This was made the same way as tier one of the sleeves. Strips of sateen with folded edges and piping machine stitched on each side.

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After each edge was secured, the 30″ strip was stuffed with a bit of quilt batting encased in sateen to make it poof out.

This was then sewn onto the skirt.

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Meanwhile, the skirt got a bit of fancy lace and cording sewn onto each front most red section. Both of these were hand sewed into place.  In addition to holding the trim on, the same stitches also secure the ivory portion of the skirt to the red ones.

The gorgeous lace was purchased here and the cording from here.

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The bodice was hand sewn on to roll/skirt, since there was so much boning I couldn’t do it by machine without breaking needles every two seconds. (trust me, I tried)

Eventually the sleeves were hand sewn onto the dress too. So much hand sewing.

.I also added a heavy duty zipper to serve as closure (not the one seen above, one that actually matched).  I had to hand baste it in place, then sew it down, which was kind of hellish but worked wonderfully.

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Once that was done I made the headdress super quickly. It has a structure of plastic boning, which was covered in quilt batting and a layer of red sateen.

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Then tiny puffed trim was made and sewn onto the front. And 8mm pearsl were sewn into the center of each poof.

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I also sewed on two organza ruffles, because ruffles are awesome. The gold trim was made from lace, which I cut apart and spray painted gold. Each circle of lace was threaded onto a piece of wire and glued from behind. The pearls are fake, flat backed, and glued down.

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And finished!

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I had several photoshoots with this costume, and the previews look amazing, but none of the actual photos have been posted. So here is a hall shot from yesterday to give you an idea of how it looked all finished. I seriously cannot wait to see photos of this from my shoots.

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Thanks for reading! I’ll have the final post on Royal Milk Tea up soon.

 

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7 responses to “The Making of a Sakizo Inspired Historical Gown [Part 2]

  1. Faye Lynn (@fayefaye013)

    February 19, 2013 at 10:45 pm

    This is simply amazing!The gold with wine red and the off white trims are so perfect a color combination. And I simply adore the little flowers on the back. I’m relieved to see someone else making crazy one off patterns the same way I do. I thought for a moment I was nutters. Were the sleeves heavy?

     
    • Angela Clayton

      February 19, 2013 at 11:58 pm

      Thank you very much! Yeah, I adore the colors too. Haha, sometimes I try to drape/measure things and be all fancy and proper when making patterns, but I usually just wing it and hope for the best. It’s the best method.

      Not really? The silk is very lightweight (srsly I have chiffon’s that are heavier in weight) and there isn’t actually *that* much material in them. But maybe I just didn’t notice it since they are the lightest part of the costume. (Bodice has steel boning…skirt is 7yards of fabric..)

       
  2. larart29

    February 20, 2013 at 2:35 am

    wow. Just wow. I prefer drafting my own patterns as well, but goodness you are positively amazing at it! I can’t believe how you are able to look at a rendering and then bring it to life. Truly. For this, I would love to nominate you for the Liebster Award! If you would kindly just confirm that you have 200 subscribers or less, that would be perfect! I will be posting on my blog my nominations within the next 2-3 days. I look forward to hearing from you!

     
  3. MalteseLizzieMcGee

    April 2, 2013 at 8:34 am

    I love the colour scheme, and the details are stunning.

     
  4. 2008momof3

    July 11, 2013 at 12:41 pm

    I just found your blog and have to say, you are amazing! I saw the Merida pics and you have the perfect face for Merida. I also thought you kind of looked like Lucretia Borgia and then when I saw this post of you in this dress, I was like, yep! http://images6.fanpop.com/image/photos/32100000/Season-2-lucrezia-borgia-32172045-1926-2900.jpg

     
  5. etoilesadique

    January 27, 2014 at 12:59 pm

    Ha ha I am french and Art historian and i confirmed: it is a ranaissance dress, in Medicis style.. The most Elegant during Renaissance ^^

    I Just discover your work. It is soooo fabulous! My god i can’t wait your new post *-*
    thank to you to create this blog ^^ (ps: excuse my bad english ^^;)

     
  6. bat

    June 17, 2015 at 3:06 pm

    This is simply amazing!

     

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