RSS

“Pretty Pirate Project” – Part Three

14 Oct

My studio is a sad place right now, this month I’m due to finish five projects, some of which are just a few weeks old, others have been around for months. It’s exciting, since I get to start new things, but it’s also weird having it be so empty!

This will probably be the final post in the Pretty Pirate Project series, unless I think the sashes, eyepatch, and hat are exciting enough to deserve one….Which at this point, I don’t. So don’t get your hopes up.

If you haven’t been keeping up with this project I suggest you check out Part one which talks about the design, and how the shorts were made. And Part two which talks about the tunic and bustier.

The final garment I had to make for this project was the jacket. I actually expected this to be a lot more challenging then it was…I don’t know if I’m getting better at sewing, or if this project was easy,  or I got lucky, but everything seemed to go really smoothly? It makes me dread  my next project since it can’t possible go as well as this one.

I went ahead and draped the jacket pattern. I wanted it to have the cut and style of an 18th century mens jacket, but I wanted the interesting seaming of a women’s riding jacket from the same period. I already had the image in my mind, so I didn’t use reference, but I found these images that show what I was going for;

The photo is from Hermitage Museum and the other is a stock photo from here.

justaucorps-1710-Hermitage museum

I wanted to wear it open, so the rest of my outfit could be seen beneath it. But I also wanted it to be able to close loosely, with an inch or so of ease on each side so it wouldn’t be tight. 

I kept all that in mind when draping, and in the end it looed like this!

DSC_1752

I did make a mock up, but the photos are lost somewhere and the mock up was demolished, so have a few photos of the pieces laid flat.

DSC_1999

DSC_2000

And the sleeves. These were crazy and took ages to fit right, I kept getting ugly puckers or they wouldn’t hang right. I’m still not entirely happy with them, but I couldn’t find any way to improve them.

20131013_142212

The fit was quite nice, so the only real alteration was adding two inches to the front panel (which will be hidden and given a finished edge) and adding two inches to the hem.

Cutting this out was pretty crazy, I only bought two and a half yards of fabric since it was $10 a yard and i’m a cheap human being. I seriously only have a handful of scraps left over, and none of them are more then three inches wide. 

Then the jacket was assembled, and collar facings were added.

DSC_2006

DSC_2007

DSC_2004

DSC_2002

The fabric was really nice to work with, it didn’t give me any trouble and all the panels were assembled in an evening. Then I moved on and hand sewed everything down so you wouldn’t see topstitching. I did this all with a fancy criss cross stitch I learned in class, I figured it would be good practice!

The next thing I needed to do was add the buttons. The jacket lapels have thirty four buttons on them in total, the shorts have two, the cuffs have sixteen. But before I could add them I had to make them, all fifty two of them. I purchased 7/8th inch coverable buttons HERE and spent two hours covering them with the cream material I’m making the hat from.

20130930_124829

Then I sewed one whole side on and did a bit of a fit test.

DSC_2011

DSC_2019

I laid it flat and took several photos as well, the fancy seaming is easier to see on the inside.

DSC_2017

I didn’t actually get around to sewing on the other side of buttons until last night, oops. But I did get started on the sleeves!

The sleeves themselves are pretty boring, but the cuffs are sort of snazzy. For each one I cut a piece of lining, which was sewn on, right sides together.

20131013_183730

Then I pushed the lining up one quarter of an inch and pinned it, so it looks like piping.

20131013_184318

Then I stitched on eight buttons, and sewed them to the jacket sleeves!

20131013_215325

I also made shoulder pads out of two layers of quilt batting.

20131013_190954

And with that, the only step left was hemming, and hand sewing. I spent two hours in front of the TV handsewing the shoulder pads in, buttons on, tacking down the cuffs, and hemming.

But when I was done, I had something pretty beautiful.

Behold, the pirate jacket!

DSC_2192

I’m not entirely happy with the sleeves, but overall I love it a lot.

Untitled-1

I don’t have photos of the finished outfit all together, but here are a few pictures of the bustier, tunic, shorts, socks, and wig together!

tumblr_muf9n1YiGS1qlijqyo1_1280

Hopefully I can get the hat and accessories finished, and if i’m lucky, photographed this weekend. 

Thanks for reading! 

 
 

Tags: , , , , ,

13 responses to ““Pretty Pirate Project” – Part Three

  1. Kerri

    October 14, 2013 at 2:02 pm

    You’re a marvel. Thanks for sharing, I love seeing what you produce.

     
  2. Joana Vitoriano

    October 14, 2013 at 2:16 pm

    perfect, congratulation.

     
  3. MontanaDesigns

    October 14, 2013 at 4:13 pm

    Wood, you are great at costuming! Very good photos and tutorial. I’m going to share this.

     
  4. Maltese Lizzie

    November 14, 2013 at 4:10 pm

    It looks amazing. How do you draft you sleeves? Do you drape them, or draft them on paper?

     
    • Angela Clayton

      November 16, 2013 at 12:44 pm

      Draping sleeves is a really complicated process that i’m not very good at,so I don’t feel comfortable trying to explain it myself! I usually draft the shoulder curves on paper and turn that into a mock up. But after the mock up is made I end up altering them quite a lot (taking them in, adding length, shortening the shoulder curve etc.) to get them to lay nice.

       
  5. Skie

    February 8, 2014 at 4:16 am

    I love how you did the jacket I am currently making one similar and this made it easier to do.

     
  6. Lidz

    March 27, 2014 at 10:48 am

    I have followed along with a couple of your garments, and I think I have learned more about techniques from your blog than any other place on the net. You do a great job showing the process of the techniques you use!

     
  7. Vicky

    April 7, 2014 at 4:27 pm

    that blonde wig is gorgeous!!!!! where did you get it from?

     
  8. Maiken

    July 20, 2014 at 6:45 am

    I was wondering what kind of fabric did you use?

     
  9. MalteseLizzieMcGee

    June 15, 2015 at 4:15 am

    Does this jacket close, or do you just wear it open?

     
  10. Ang

    August 20, 2015 at 3:39 pm

    Hi, this really inspired me. Would it be okay if I made something similure?

     

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

 
%d bloggers like this: