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Making a Floral Regency Dress, Part Two

I might have forgotten about this project. Again. I finished making it at the beginning of August and still haven’t finished writing about it, how awful is that?

Today i’m fixing that! This is the second post about making my Floral Regency Dress, part one is posted here and shows how I made the bodice. I also have a post about making the bonnet that goes with this, which is posted here.

The first step in making the skirt was cutting it out. I decided to use my usual four piece skirt method, which involves rectangular front and back panels and two side panels. The side panels are made from a rectangle that is cut horizontally to make two gored pieces which add volume to the hem but keep the skirt relatively narrow at the waist.

That process has never given me any trouble before. But this time I messed up because I forgot something very important: for this to work you have to be using a fabric that is the same on both sides.

Would have been great if I remembered this before cutting the fabric!

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To fix it I placed the pieces together with the right sides facing each other. Then I trimmed away a lot of the length and width so they were mirror images of each other instead of being identical.

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Much better! Just not the size i’d wanted them to be.

I should also mention that due to limited amounts of material these panels were cut on a different grain than the front and back panel. Which isn’t ideal but luckily isn’t too noticeable once everything is sewn together.

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I cut out the front panel and pinned everything onto my dress form so I could see the shape. The skirt is definitely too wide for Regency Era fashion, but I liked it so I left it that way.

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Then I made a bit of bias tape and marked a slit down the center of the back panel.

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That got slashed open, then I whip stitched bias tape on to cover the raw edges. This creates a nicely finished opening  which makes the dress easy to get on and off.

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And then all the pieces got sewn together with french seams. After this was done I trimmed the top edge and rounded out the hem so the skirt will have a nice little train.

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Then the skirt got hemmed. I left one and a half inches for the hem. The first half inch got tucked inward and basted down then the hem was turned under by an inch and whip stitched in place.

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I gathered the top of the skirt down. I realize now that I really should have removed volume from the front, but at this point it was a little too late. It’s most densely gathered at the front and back, the sides are left completely smooth.

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Here it is pinned onto the dress form. Aside from the misplaced volume I was happy with it.

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So I pinned it onto the bodice, then sewed it on with a one inch seam allowance.

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I made some more bias tape out of scraps.

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And used that to cover the raw edges.

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Speaking of bias tape, I cut out a bunch of four inch long one inch wide bias cut strips. These will be used as ties for the back of the bodice.

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I ironed the raw edges towards the center then ironed them in half so no raw edges were visible. To make sure they stay this way I whip stitched around the edges of each one.

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Then the little ties got sewn between the lining layer and the top layer of the bodice. When they were attached I stitched the back of the bodice lining shut.

Then I made a sash from a long strip of cotton sateen and sewed that around the bottom of the bodice.

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And that’s it! The dress is finished!

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I did take some worn photos of this, but i’m not happy with them. I worked hard on the dress and bonnet but seriously slacked off on the undergarments. My chemise was too short and gaped horribly at the back. The petticoat was too long and not the right shape. The fichu is just a piece of lace because I forgot to make one and was in a rush to get this photographed. I think the sloppiness of those things really effect the way the dress looks when it’s all put together.

I think when summer comes around i’ll make some major changes to this and hopefully end up with a dress (and ensemble!) that i’m happier with. In addition to the changes mentioned above i’m going to hem the dress and remove a good 20″+ of volume from the skirt.

It’s not perfect but I think with a few fixes I can get this project to a point where i’m happy with it. At least I actually finished this project, which is more than I can say for my previous two Regency fashion attempts (they both ended up in my scrap bin…)

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Thanks for reading!

 

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Making a Floral Regency Dress, Part One

It’s been almost two weeks since my last post, which is pretty awful. I had a month where I was feeling very uninspired and didn’t get very much done. Then my family was traveling and I ended up going almost two weeks without sewing, for me that’s kind of crazy since I usually sew everyday.

But i’m back in the swing of things now! I have a few new projects already started, and plans for several more. I’m feeling really enthusiastic about all of them so I think this next month will be a lot more productive. And the more productive I am, the more blog posts I write, so I should be getting back to my twice a week schedule soon.

As much as I want to post about the things i’m actively working on, I should probably start by blogging about the dress I finished almost a month ago.

I’ve already written about making the bonnet that goes with this dress, that post can be read here. But today i’ll be talking about the process of making the actual dress.

This dress was inspired by a set of curtains. Yes, this is another curtain dress. When I was in Ikea I saw this set which reminded me of Chintz print dresses from the early 1800s.

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The more I’ve worked on this project the more modern I think this fabric looks. It definitely has a different color palette than chintz dresses had a couple hundred years ago, and the pattern is a little more abstract. I still really like the fabric, but i’m not sure if it was the best choice for a historical project.

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After I bought the curtains I began searching for inspiration online. Almost a year ago I pinned a few photos of this dress, which I decided to use as my main reference point for this project. I also used this blog post for more reference images, since it has many detailed photos of the back of regency bodices.

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Then I got to draping the pattern. This was quite tricky to drape since I wanted a low neckline, but not too low. And I wanted a tightly gathered bust, but not so tightly gathered that it looked bulky. It was difficult to balance those things but after a lot of fiddling I had something I was happy with!

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When it was removed from the dress form it looked like this. I ironed it, then copied it onto paper and added seam allowances.

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And here is the paper pattern.

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After making a mock up I decided I was happy with the pattern. So I cut each piece out twice, once from the curtain fabric, and again from a white linen which will be used as lining.

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Then the front side of the bodice was gathered down by hand.

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When the gathering was finished the back panel and strap got sewn on.

I did a quick little fit test here before moving on.

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Then the raw edge around the armhole got turned over and sewn down.

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Here you can see the peculiar patterning on the back. This was very common on regency dresses and I actually really like how it looks. The only thing I don’t like is drafting sleeves that fit into those funny arm holes…

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I went ahead and sewed together my lining. Then it was gathered and had the edges around the armholes turned over.

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Now it was time for the dreaded sleeves. But for once this went surprisingly well! I drafted a pattern with a few measurements and a lot of guess work and didn’t have to make any alterations! The mock up fit perfectly. So that was awesome.

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The sleeves got cut out and darts were sewn in.

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Then the bottom edge was turned under.

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And the back seam was done up with french seams.

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The sleeves got sewn on by hand with little whip stitches.

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Now it was time for lining. I pinned the lining to the neckline of the bodice with the right sides facing each other, then stitched a half inch away from the edge. When it was turned the right way out the neckline had a finished edge. Then I topstitched around the neckline by hand, to keep the lining in place.

The lining at the back, bottom, and around the armholes was left open. Eventually the lining around the armholes was whip stitched down, so it covers the top edge of the sleeves, which was left raw. The back and bottom edges can’t be sewn down until the back closures and skirt are attached, so that will be done later on.

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Here it is with the lining sewn in!

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And here it is on my dress form. As I said, I don’t love this print for a historical costume, but I am pretty pleased with how this bodice turned out. Two of my recent (as in within the last year) big project failures have been Regency era pieces, so i’m happy to finally have one go as planned!

And as a bonus, it’s really comfortable compared to most of my historical dresses.

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Thanks for reading – I think I will have a fabric haul up on Friday!

 

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1830’s Plaid Pleated Dress, Photos

Today I have another set of photos to share. Much like the last photos I posted, these have an autumn theme and were taken in a pumpkin patch. I thought it would be make the perfect lighthearted backdrop for a wacky dress like this one, and it did not disappoint!

This was my first time having the whole ensemble on and I was pretty pleased with it – everything fit and was really comfortable. I was a bit concerned the petticoat would show, or that the bonnet would slip around, but neither of those were an issue.

I paired this with my regency stays that I made ages ago, and my “Victorian“* boots. Neither are particularly accurate to this period but helped achieve the silhouette I wanted. I talk more about the petticoats and the construction of this costume in these posts:

Post 1: The Bodice

Post 2: The Sleeves, Skirt, and Bonnet

Before getting into the photos I wanted to mention my last post, where I reviewed a bunch of costume reference books. If you’re interested in any of them this is the time to buy! Amazon has $10 off book purchases, and Barnes & Noble has 15% off your order, which makes the price of those pretty inspiration books a bit easier to manage!

Now onto the photos!

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And some muddy boots after a long morning! Luckily none got on the dress.

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And that’s it! Thanks for reading!

 
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Posted by on November 28, 2016 in 19th century, Completed Costumes

 

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Making a Cotton Sateen Regency Bonnet

Usually I post about making a dress, then post about making matching accessories. But today I felt like blogging about making this bonnet, so i’m doing things a little backwards.

I’ve recently finished a regency themed dress made from a red and white floral fabric. I showed a little preview of it in my last progress report, and a blog post about the process will be up in the coming weeks. The dress has a bright print but is very simple in design, which makes it an excellent candidate for accessories. I decided to pair it with a bonnet made from cotton sateen and a pair of white shoes. This post will be about making the bonnet and decorating the shoes.

I’m not very familiar with bonnets from the early 1800s so I did a bit of research. It seems cotton caps were more common than bonnets, but I didn’t think those would be very flattering on me or look nice with the dress. After a lot of searching I found reference images that I liked. The first is on the bottom left of this print and the second is shown here. My plan was to combine the brim from the second image with the cap/banding of the first image.

Here is my sketch illustrating that plan…I draw really badly sometimes.

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The brim and back of the bonnet are made from interfacing with wire in the edges. The outside will be covered with red cotton sateen and the interior will be white. I also chose to make the cap portion flexible and made entirely from fabric, with no base.

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And I have some fake flowers and pearls which I wanted to use as decoration.

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With a bit of a plan in mind it was time to get to work!

I never really know where to start when it comes to bonnets, so I tried to drape the brim shape on a wig head. That process looked a bit like this…

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When it was removed from the form it looked like this!

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I made it a little bit larger to account for the fact that my wig head is smaller than my head.

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And I had a pattern! It looked about right when I held it up to my head, so I used the pattern as a guide and cut out the interfacing. This is heavy duty felt weight interfacing, which i’ve used for headpieces in the past. I should have used buckram, but I still haven’t ordered any.

(it’s on my list, i’ll get to it someday…)

The interfacing sat weirdly on my head, it looked much different and way larger than the newsprint layer. So I cut several inches off each side. I don’t regret doing this, but I wish I hadn’t cut off so much. My bonnet ended up being a little bit too small and sits farther back on my head than I would like.

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Using my sketch as a guide I drafted a back panel which will cup my neck and attach to the brim. This also got cut out of interfacing.

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Then I whip stitched wire to each edge. This allows the bonnet to be shaped.

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To cover up the wire and texture of the interfacing I sewed flannel over the top side of each piece. I did a really awful job of this, but that’s okay, no one will see it.

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The top layer of the back piece are bands of cotton sateen. I made these bands by sewing three inch wide strips of cotton sateen into tubes, then turning them right side out and ironing them.

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The bands got sewn on but I left the top and bottom edge open. The lining got tucked into the open edges and sewn down. Eyelet lace will eventually be sewn under the bottom band, and the top band will hide the raw edge of the lace used for the cap. So  these were left open for the time being.

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This is the interior.

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I decided on the wider eyelet lace since it matched the color of the dress better (the other was a little too yellow) it was pinned underneath the bottom band.

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And all sewn down! It looks a little ripply right now, but when it’s bent more tension is put on the bands and they look smooth.

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I skipped a few steps here, oops The brim was covered with flannel and cotton sateen. Then I cut out a piece of poplin to the same size as the brim with a half inch seam allowance across the bottom edge. I didn’t like how the poplin looked on its own, so I covered it with a gathered layer of silk organza. Then the bottom edge was tucked underneath and pinned to hide the raw edge. Here you can see it pinned in place.

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I whip stitched around the top edge and the sides to secure the layers in place, but I left the bottom edge open.

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I made a little bit of bias tape (I had maybe an inch leftover when this was done!) out of some lace. I sewed this around the top and side edges to finish them nicely.

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Now the two pieces were mostly done and could be sewn together. Here they are pinned in place. I sewed them together with thread that was doubled up. I was sewing through two layers of stiffened felt so I used a big needles and pliers to help guide it.

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And when that was done I cut out the cap. I took a few measurements and then guessed what the shape and size should be. Not the most professional method but it worked!

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The bottom edge was gathered slightly then tucked between the top band and the layer of lining. I sewed it in place with small whip stitches.

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Then the top  layers was gathered slightly towards the center and pinned between the brim and the brim lining.

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Here is a shot of how it looked inside.

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And after everything had been sewn down! After all that work it was finally starting to look like a bonnet.

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I made up some ties from strips of cotton sateen. These got sewn just inside the interior of the bonnet. And then it was time for decorating!

The roses I planned on using for decorating were a bright orangey red which didn’t really match. So I used a watercolor brush and some copic inks to darken the edges to a deeper shade.The one in the middle/slightly towards the left is unpainted so you can see the difference.

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I glued those on along with the pearly strands of white flowers, and it was done!

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I think this bonnet is very pretty, and i’m happy with the shape and construction. But I made it too small, so I don’t love how it sits on my head. I also need to add another tie, or combs to the back because it is really unflattering on my jaw when it is tied tightly, but it tends to shift and fall when it’s tied loosely.

I attempted to take photos of this worn but the lighting went to crap and I didn’t end up with usable images. But I did get a bit of video footage of me wearing it (I was filming it for a costume spotlight) and that can be watched here!

Now onto the shoes. I actually plan on making a pair of Regency slippers from leather and velvet in the near future, since I want them to match a dress i’ll be starting soon. But I didn’t make these shoes, I bought them from amazon, you can see the listing here.

They aren’t very comfortable or well made, but for $18 I wasn’t expecting a lot. I bought them because I really liked the pointed toe, and found the silhouette to be quite similar to shoes from the early 1800s.

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Funnily enough the model of these shoes is “Angie – 18” which is my name and current age, which is kind of a weird coincidence!

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I made some bias tape from cotton sateen. It was folded in half and glued down around the foot opening with the creased edge being visible. I used E6000 to secure it and a few dozen binder clips to keep it in place while the glue dried. The raw edge was trimmed with pinking shears and dipped in fray check to prevent it from unraveling in the future.

Then I made cute little bows for the front.

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Here they are with the bows attached! I glued on some of the pearl/white fake flowers as well. I’m really happy with how these look.

I just wish I had used a little more precision with the glue gun! There is some visible glue which i’m not very proud of. I might try and fix that in the future, but even if I don’t it’s not a big deal. I doubt anyone will be getting that close to my feet, or even see these underneath my dress!

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And that’s it for the accessories! I’ll talk about the dress that goes with them soon.

Thanks for reading!

 

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Making a Red 1830s Day Dress, Part One

Sorry for the lack of updates this week! I had a little backlog of posts (completed projects I hadn’t written about) but I’ve gone through them all, so now I’ll be posting about things as I work on them – which means posts may be less consistent depending on what I get done.

My newest project is another 1830’s dress. I liked my last project so much I decided to carry on the trend and do another garment from the same era! My main inspiration for this dress were this and this, though I used various other paintings and costume plates for reference as well. Some of those can be found on my new pinterest on the 19th century board.

Step one in the dress making process was draping the pattern. I attempted this twice – the first time ended in disaster, but the second time went well, and in a few minutes it looked exactly how I wanted it to.

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I turned that into a paper pattern, which I used to cut out my mock up.

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I had to make a few alterations – the mock up was too long in the waist, the neckline was too high, and the shoulders too big. Luckily these were all simple changes, and after they were made I was ready to start work on the bodice!

I cut my pattern out from cotton sateen which would be the top fabric. I also cut out a large rectangle which would be pleated down.

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I marked out half inch knife pleats onto the wrong side of the fabric, then pinned them all in place. I’m not going to say too much about the process of pleating since i’m sure plenty of tutorials on this subject already exist.

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I sewed down each edge of the material, then carefully removed the pins. Every time I took out a pin I would iron the spot it was holding down. I used a very high temperature iron, and a lot of water to get these pleats as sharp as possible.

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Then I drew a diagonal line over the pleats – this would become the center seam later on. I also stitched across it to make sure the pleats wouldn’t move.

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A pleating god must have been smiling down on me, because these lined up perfectly! I was pretty damn giddy. I think having things line up requires a lot of skill, but also a good amount of luck.

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Then the panels were cut to the the right shape, and once that was done I officially had the most challenging part of this dress finished!

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My beautiful pleated panels were then sewn on to the front  bodice panels. This had to be done by hand to make sure no top stitching was visible.

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I made up a strip of piping that would go straight down the middle of the bodice. I feel like I should mention that this was the most frustrating part of making this dress. My machine was having a million issues at the time I made this piping (I decided the problem was a slightly bent needle – and another slightly bent needle which I used to replace the first one, a poorly done bobbin, and rayon thread being awful in general) so it seriously took me two hours.

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I sewed both of the bodice panels onto this – unfortunately with all the layers of fabric I couldn’t do a very good job. So I ended up whip stitching the piping closer to the fabric.

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Once that was done, it looked like this! I realize now I should have used two layers of fabric to cover the piping. A bit of the rope texture shows through, but I did manage to iron it into submission so that is less obvious now.

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The next step was sewing the back panels together, then doing up the shoulder seam.

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And once those were attached I could add trim to the neckline! I decided on eyelet lace since it’s so cute, but the only eyelet lace I had was ruffled and to large, so I ended up cutting it down.

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The lace was pinned and sewn onto the neckline.

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Then I hand stitched around the neckline to secure it in place.

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I did up the garment side seams and it actually looked like a proper bodice, so exciting!

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All it really needed was piping at the waist, so I went ahead and made that. This time I used two layers of fabric to avoid the rope texture showing through, and luckily I didn’t run into any machine errors!

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The piping got sewn on. Then I rolled the edge over and hand sewed all around it. I also went through and tacked down all the pleats. (I did all that after taking these photos)

despite being super careful there are a few stitches visible from the front which really stinks, but the thread matches well enough that it shouldn’t be too obvious.

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Lastly it needed lining. I used a lightweight cotton for this task.

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It got sewn in the way you would expect – the bottom edge can’t be sewn until the skirt is attached.

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But that’s that, the bodice is finished! My next post will either talk about making the bonnet, or be about the sleeves and skirt.

Thanks for reading!

 

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A look back on 2015

I’m a little late with writing this – but not as late as I was last year! So hopefully that counts for something!

Like the title of this post implies, this is going to be a look back on what I made in 2015. I’m going to share my thoughts on each project, my goals for 2016, and my feelings towards this year as a whole. And it’s probably going to be a long one since I made a lot of stuff!

Project wise this year was kind of weird. I don’t mean to be a downer, but i’m not very happy with what I accomplished this year. Not because of how many things I made – I finished more than twenty projects and the majority have multiple pieces, which I think is pretty respectable. But I didn’t enjoy working on a lot of the projects I finished.

When I started off this year I had a plan, and I was determined to stick to it. I had several big elaborate projects I wanted to work on and figured i’d make easy fashion projects in between. Those fashion projects didn’t end up being easy, I actually found them to be really time consuming and draining to work on. But I had the materials for them and they were part of my plan so I kept making them – even though I didn’t enjoy them at all.

That led to rut of sorts, where I didn’t want to work on anything. Especially the really elaborate projects I had originally planned. The enthusiasm for them wasn’t there at all, which is why I only finished one of the three projects I had planned at the beginning of 2015.

Luckily I did get back into the swing of things after a shopping trip to the garment district in October. I picked up materials for a slew of medieval projects which really restored my enthusiasm towards sewing. So I managed to finish the year on a high note, and i’m feeling very inspired and excited about my projects for 2016!

But before talking about those projects, it’s time to look back on 2015…

January: 

In January I started working on the underthings for my Tudor project, which involved making A Pair of Bodies and a Chemise.

But my first project of the year was a cotton sateen polonaise circa 1790, which was intended to be worn over a embroidered satin gown. I finished the dress but the polonaise is currently living in my bin of death and I don’t think it will ever get finished. I could not for the life of me get this thing to fit and eventually gave up due to frustration. Quite sad – in it’s early stages I really liked how it was coming along!

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I did manage to successfully finish one project that month, and that’s my Silvery Blue Dress which is inspired by a gown in the show Galavant. I like how this turned out a lot, and I would like to expand this ensemble by making a cloak to go with it.

It’s also worth mentioning that this is the first of many blue dresses I made in 2015. More than a third of my projects this year were blue!

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February: 

I continued making Tudor underthings and managed to finish the Farthingale. Alongside that I made the Tudor Kirtle. This is one of my favorite pieces from the year. There was a lot of trial and error involved since I wasn’t very familiar with the silhouettes from that period. That made it quite challenging, but also very enjoyable since I had to get creative. I’m also really pleased with the beading on this dress, it was my first time doing such an elaborate pattern and really inspired me to include more beadwork in my future projects.

My next project was a three piece ensemble which I titled the “Fluffy Feathered Dress” which was inspired by Marchesa dresses. I like how this turned out, and I enjoyed parts of the process. I used a lot of sequins and lace on the bodice to create a variety of textures, which was fun. The rest of the dress was kind of boring to work on by comparison.

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March: 

At this point I became frustrated with my tudor project, so I decided to make a dress from materials I had around. This project ended up being titled the “Pleated Navy Gown“. I enjoyed the process of making this a lot. It was very quick, I made it in less than a week and I think it’s one of the most visually impressive things I made this year. I love the fabrics and the drape of the sleeve.

But this dress isn’t perfect. The bodice is really thick at points, and since it isn’t boned it doesn’t sit very nicely on my body. I need to figure out some way of fixing that before properly photographing this project.

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April: 

I started work on the foundation garments for my 18th century ensemble and managed to finish the Half Boned Stays and Chemise. I realize now that the stays are too big and the fabric for the chemise was way too thick, so both need to be remade in the future. That’s kind of a bummer, but at least i’ll know for next time.

This was also the beginning of my Cinderella dresses from hell, though at this point I only had the Petticoat finished. I think these were the main reason I became so frustrated and uninspired. These were very time consuming, not very enjoyable, and seemed to fight me at every turn. I really wish I had given up on these dresses and moved onto something else instead of working through the misery to finish them.

A project I like more is my Orchid Inspired Dress, which I made from materials I got during my birthday in the middle of the month. This project had it’s ups and downs but for the most part I enjoyed working on it, and I like how it turned out. Though as always, i’d do some things differently next time!

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May: 

I finished one of my Cinderella Dresses but my happiness towards that was overshadowed by my struggles to complete the second dress in the series.

I did manage to figure out the bodice of my Tudor Project, which was great. I was also working pretty intensely on my 18th century dress. I made a set of pocket hoops, the bodice, and dyed the lace for the skirt. Unfortunately that was the last time I worked on that project, and though it isn’t abandoned, I haven’t made any effort to finish it.

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June: 

I finished my Tudor Project this month, which was a huge accomplishment for me. The final pieces include two necklaces, a french hood, foresleeves, and lace cuffs. I have mixed feelings about this project – I love all the detail work put into it, and how the pieces work together, but I don’t think it was completely successful. There are little fit issues here and there and the level of mobility is really bad.

I think my expectations for this project were higher than what it ended up being, which is why I don’t feel completely happy with it. But I am proud of it! I think it’s the most elaborate thing i’ve ever made.

I also FINALLY finished the second Cinderella dress. Thank goodness. This turned out better than I had expected but I hated working on it, so that soured the end result for me.

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July:

This was my favorite month project wise. I got so much done and I love everything that I made.

After months of on/off work I finished a Brown Menswear Ensemble. I made the pants for these in January, the shirt in March, and the hat in July. Those pieces were simple compared to the doublet (which was made in November 2014) but weren’t a big priority of mine, so they took a while to finish. I like how this turned out a lot, I think it’s cute!

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I made my favorite project of the year this month, and that’s my Heinrich Inspired Dress (along with two matching headpieces). I adore everything about this, I don’t think I have a single bad thing to say! It was really fun to make and I think the end result is gorgeous.

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Another one of my favorites is this Taffeta Ensemble based off a portrait of Ana De Mendoza. The dress, hat, and chemise were all made in the same month. I really enjoyed making this. The hat and dress bodice especially. Everything went so smoothly! And I’d never made a hat like this before, so completing it really motivated me to attempt more elaborate headpieces.

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August: 

August was less successful. I had a lot of things in progress throughout the month – including an elaborate mermaid inspired gown which I ended up putting on hiatus. I also started work on my Damask Print Medieval dress, which was fun at first but turned quite frustrating at the end.

I managed to finish three projects. The most successful of the bunch is a Regency Dress and Bonnet made from floral curtains and cotton sateen. I liked this project but I didn’t feel very excited about it while working on it, it was just something to pass the time. And looking back at it I still don’t feel very excited about it! I think it’s cute but needs some alterations before I’ll feel comfortable photographing it.

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The other project I didn’t enjoy very much at all…it was messy, and boring, and quite frustrating at times since I was allergic to all the materials. But I managed to complete my Forest Sprite project. I also made a quick dress in five hours from curtains which was fun, I’ve called that my Ikea Curtain Dress.

September: 

This month my main priority was a Black Lace Dress, which I wore to my Uncle’s wedding. This project ended up being frustrating at times, but I think it turned out very pretty!

I also kept working on my damask print dress, and I made two skirts. One was a plain circle skirt, and the other is a ruffly horsehair skirt. Both were the subjects for youtube tutorials so I never blogged about them.

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October: 

I managed to finish my Damask Print Medieval Dress this month, and a pair of PJ’s inspired by Toothless! I really dislike how the Medieval dress turned out but I think the Toothless PJs are pretty cute!

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With that finished all my “commitments” for the year were done. I didn’t need to create projects for youtube content and most of my WIP’s were complete or abandoned, so I could start fresh! This is when my enthusiasm really came back and I got back to creating projects I really love.

The first of those projects was a Medieval Escoffin and matching Dress. I love this project. It was so much fun to make and I think the end result is quite stunning, and different from everything i’ve made before. I’m very pleased with it!

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November: 

I didn’t finish any projects this month, but I made a lot of progress on various pieces. One of those pieces was a Medieval Cotehardie. I also made a headpiece to go along with a Civil War Era Dress, a medieval hennin, chiffon chemise, and a gold brocade kirtle. I really like how all of these pieces turned out, though I haven’t blogged about any of them yet!

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This month I also began work on a 1630s dress, an 18th century riding coat, medieval mantle, lace chemise,  long toed shoes, and a Burgundian Dress.

December: 

I had a massive to-do list for December. I didn’t accomplish everything on it, but it still ended up being a very productive month. I finished my Burgundian Dress and Medieval Menswear Inspired ensemble, both of which i’m very happy with.

These two projects rank highly on my list of favorites for the year. I really like how all pieces come together to make something interesting and elegant. And since I was constantly working on a new piece of each project I stayed really enthusiastic, which let me pack way more hours of time and detail work into each element.

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And of course I finished my Christmas Project! Which I ended up being surprisingly happy with as well.

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It’s worth mentioning that a good portion of this month was spent beading a riding coat which isn’t finished yet, but is coming along quite nicely. I spent the week between Christmas and New Years Day working on this like crazy. So much beading!

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Now for the fun part – what’s next! I’ll actually have a blog post all about the fabrics I bought with my Christmas money, and what I plan on doing with them. So I won’t talk too much about my future plans, but I did want to share my goals. My goal is actually pretty vague – i’m a bit worried to commit to anything in particular, since that let me into a creative ditch last year!

But my main goal for this year  is to improve my general knowledge of historical fashion, and learn more hand sewing and fabric manipulation techniques.

I like reading and I like learning, but I like sewing more. So I don’t put a lot of effort into research or new techniques unless it’s related to a specific project. And I want to change that. I own a lot of really great reference materials that I look through when i’m stuck on something, but I haven’t read many of them cover-to-cover. And I definitely haven’t practiced all the techniques that are detailed in some of the books.

There are some really basic techniques, like blanket stitching or smocking that I don’t know how to do, since i’ve never had a project that requires them. This year i’m going to try and push myself to learn and practice those techniques, even if they are only used to create a sampler.

I think if I took a few hours each week to read through my reference books i’d have a more well rounded skill set and knowledge of historical fashion. Right now what I know is pretty limited to european fashion from the 15/19th centuries. And even that is a little spotty. I’m interested in learning more, and I have the books around to do so, I just need to take the time to read them!

As for project plans, mine are very loose because I never seem to be able to stick to the solid plans I make, and this year I don’t want to, I want to work on what I feel enthusiastic about and go with the flow. But I do have a few things I would like to accomplish and that includes:

-A draped gown. Probably inspired by the statues from the Metropolitan Museum of art that I was fascinated by. I have the fabric for this (ten yards of satin faced red chiffon).

-An 18th Century Project. I’d be happy just to finish the one I have in progress! But I have fabric for a turque and chemise a la reiene so the possibilities are endless.

-A 20th Century Project. More on this in my next post, since I picked up fabric for this on a recent NYC shopping trip!

-A Regency dress. I’ve made a few of these but don’t love any of them, maybe i’ll get one right this year.

-A big ball gown. Probably a Civil War Era evening dress – potentially made out of pink cotton sateen and lace that i’ve had forever.

-Something Tailored. Maybe a women’s suit? A riding ensemble? I’m not sure what.

Of course there are many more things i’d like to make. Another menswear inspired project is on my list for this year, and I want to make a women’s cotehardie very soon. I also have four projects I purchased fabric for over Christmas, which will keep me busy for the first half of this year. But I can’t list all my ideas, there are simply too many to share!

Also I think i’m going to, for the most part, be doing more of the same this year. I’m hoping to get more of my projects photographed, and take on a wider variety of silhouettes and era so my portfolio has a little more variety. But I think my blogging schedule will stay the same if not more frequent.

And that’s it! This post is massive so I’ll end it here. I hope you enjoyed my blog throughout 2015 and that you continue to enjoy it throughout the new year. And of course, I hope your year is off to a good start!

Thanks for reading!

 
21 Comments

Posted by on January 13, 2016 in Progress Report, Uncategorized

 

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A Fabric Haul & Project Plans!

I hope everyone enjoyed the holidays! I had a quiet but nice Christmas. It wasn’t filled with surprises because I was responsible for buying my own presents, but that arrangement worked out really well because I got exactly what I wanted! And what I wanted was fabric. Lots of fabric. And some beads.

Which meant it was time to take a trip to the garment district!

I haven’t been into NYC to buy fabric since my birthday (in April) so I was really excited! This year I’m aiming to make detailed, higher quality garments, so I went for quality over quantity…but I still got an absolutely ridiculous amount of fabric. This is going to be a post about what I got and what I hope to do with it!

I’ll start with the most elaborate fabric, which I definitely did NOT need. I was pretty good about sticking to my list this time, but when I saw this I couldn’t resist!

It’s a low pile velvet decorated with gold embroidery and sequins. I wish the velvet quality was a little nicer, it isn’t very pleasing to the touch but it does look lovely. I fell in love with the colors and embroidery pattern and knew I had to have it! I got it for $12 a yard from Amin Fabrics but I saw it at other stores too.

I know this has indian inspirations behind it, but I think it could make a lovely regency court gown. Definitely not an accurate one, but it could be so pretty. I feel like fabrics like this do all the work for you and I don’t want to cut into it too much, so a style like that would suit it well.

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I actually bought satin! I haven’t bought satin in…years? I think it has been years! This is an off white polyester satin with matching embroidery all across the fabric. In the store I really really liked it and decided it was perfect for a simple Regency dress, which i’ve already started on.

Now that i’ve played around with it I have mixed feelings about it, because I think the sheen makes it look a bit cheap.The sheen is actually identical to some silk satin I have, which is a high quality fabric. So maybe i’m just not used to shiny fabrics…or maybe it looks like costume satin and i’m in denial.

DSC_1594 The red fabric underneath it is a cotton sateen. I’ve actually used this exact material a LOT, I’ve made two dresses, a bonnet, and a corset from it and I still adore it. I love the weight, color, sheen, and price! So I picked up another six yards on this trip.

It will be used for a robe a la polonaise, worn over the ivory satin dress.

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 This year i’m finally going to tackle a gown from the 1640s! It’s my favorite period when it comes to fashion and i’m so excited to make something for it. It will be of this style. I chose a light blue taffeta for the project, I had hoped to find a richer shade but I think this color is nice too!

DSC_1946 I also got eight yards of champagne colored taffeta and eight yards of this lovely emerald green. Jewel tones are my favorite colors and i’m looking forward to working with these! They will eventually be turned into a monster ball gown from the mid 1800s.

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 I picked up eight yards of this ivory damask. I wish I could remember the shop name from where I bought this so I could recommend against visiting them. I was browsing trim while they cut this and when I unrolled it at home I found that over a yard is filthy and the weave is damaged beyond repair! Very annoying.

Hopefully I will still have enough to make the dress I planned. It will be an unusually elaborate dress that will be worn under a riding coat, with a mid 1700s theme.

DSC_1939 I also picked up a lace to pair it with! This is from Dianas fabric. It was $13 a yard, it’s sixty inches wide and both edges have gorgeous scalloped lace. That means I only needed three yards and I have enough to hem the dress with, so it works out to being cheaper than buying trim by the yard. And in addition to the lace edging, it also has appliques I can cut out and use.

Unfortunately the lace doesn’t really match the fabric (damn store lighting) so it may get a tea bath before I start the beading process!

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The fabric I bought for the riding coat is a stunning melton wool! Not the most exciting looking fabric of the bunch but I love the weight and texture of this. I got the three yards for $35 which I think is pretty good considering the quality!

I’m going to do a heap of research before starting on this project, but i’m so excited. It combines my love of lace and pretty dresses with tailoring, which is great!

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 I found these taffetas in Amin fabrics for $4 a yard and fell in love. They are really light and have a sheen that reminds me a lot of irredecent silk taffeta. I think they will make a really lovely renaissance ensemble.

I got some pink chiffon and trim as well, which actually don’t match. That’s what you get for trying to match fabrics without swatches. I think I have some chiffon in my stash that will match anyway, so i’m not too worried! It will always get used for something else!

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 The final fabrics I got are for a Tudor piece. I showed a few of my inspirations here, unfortunately I couldn’t find materials as intensely colored as I wanted. I ended up settling on this gold and orange damask, which I like but don’t love. But i’m confident it will grown on me once I start the project.

Bright colors can look a bit garish in historical recreations so I think in the end i’ll be happy with how it looks.

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I bought silk – a shock to the people in the fabric stores who remembered me, because I never buy silk. Usually when I ask how much something is they will just respond with “That’s silk” and that means it is  more than i’m willing to pay. But this year is about quality over quantity, so I decided I need to have one project that uses something other than cotton and polyester.

It’s a nice copper color with some deeper red tones.

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 So that is it on the fabric front. But i’m not done yet! Because my allowance money from the last four months went into beads. My dad and I went to Beads World, it was our first stop and I was determined to buy a lot of seed beads and glass gems.

Most of the seed beads I bought were gold, because it’s the color I find myself reaching for most often and crafts stores don’t have a good variety.

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I also got some orange ones with my tudor gown in mind, some blue ones for the baroque dress, and some cream colored ones of the same size. I would have chosen differently if I had bought the fabric before visiting this shop, but the location of this store meant we needed to go to it first.

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 I also really wanted glass gems for my tudor and baroque dresses. They have very elaborate beading at the necklines which should be easy to replicate with these.

I got a dozen of the larger red ones, and a 72 pack of the smaller red ones. I think it was $5 per a dozen and $12 for 72, so I opted for the latter.

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A dozen of medium sized clear ones and a 72 pack of the smaller ones. I REALLY wish they had some square ones since those are more accurate, but i’m happy with what I got. I think with less variety they will be easier to arrange, so that’s good!

DSC_1930 Some larger ones in this taupe color.

DSC_1929 A mixture of blue and clear oval ones! I really adore the color of these blue ones.

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And two large ones, for pendants.

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While walking to the fabric stores we came across another bead shop which I got a few things from. I purchased two (massive!) bags of sequins, two bags of plastic pearls, two feathers and some thread.

These feathers are fantastic, I never thought I would pay $5 for a single feather but these are just…I can’t describe them, they move like they are alive. Like some sort of underwater creature. It’s fantastic. My dad and I sat on the floor of this shop looking at them and talking about how “Nice those feathers are” which sounds odd looking back on it but was totally justifiable at the time because they are really nice feathers.

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I thought the pearls were super cheap because they were in a big box and all strange colors. I realize now they are probably so cheap because they don’t have holes in them. I am officially the biggest dummy ever. I should have checked but I just assumed beads would have holes in them.

Luckily the sequins do, in fact, have holes!

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I also got three spools of thread because it was really cheap. But a blog post filled with such pretty things shouldn’t be finished with something so boring, so i’ll end this here!

I’m not sure if it can really come through my writing but i’m so pleased and excited with what I got and really looking forward to working with all the new supplies!

I hope you all had a lovely holiday and I wish you a happy new year! It has been a really exciting year blogging wise and i’m looking forward to continuing it in the new year. I’ll have a big gooey round up post with my goals and such up next week, so I won’t get too mushy here. But thank you all for visiting and reading what I have to say here! It means a lot to me!

 
23 Comments

Posted by on December 31, 2014 in All about Fabric

 

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Progress Report: November

October was very eventful. I wouldn’t say it was productive because I didn’t get that much accomplished, but a lot happened!

I started and completed three dresses. I began work on two others. I added more fabric and glittery things to my ever growing collection. I got photos of my flower dresses. And I received a copy of a book that i’m in! This is going to be a write up of all those things, along with sharing my plans for November.

Starting with the most unusual and arguably most exciting thing: I’m in a book! A real book with pages, one you can go out and buy or order from Amazon! This is the book, I don’t make anything from sales so I won’t be encouraging anyone to buy it, but I might mention it a lot because I find it neat.

It has a couple photos of my Elsa costume and I answer a few questions about the process of making it!

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This month also included two photoshoots, both for my flower dresses. The first was for my Halloween Inspired dress, and the second was for my Fall Fairy! The Halloween inspired photos are posted here, and i’ll be posting the pumpkin patch pictures closer to Thanksgiving. I’m really happy with this set of photos, they are exactly what I had picture while making the dress!

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Projects for November will be a strange variety. I’m aiming to complete two 19th century projects for “Nineteenth Century November”. This will include a Gordon Highlanders inspired uniform and a Regency dress.

The dress is actually one I started a few months ago and never completed – it’s been taking up space in my WIP drawers for months, so it’s time to get it finished!

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I’ll also be working to complete two projects I started in October. The first is a maroon middle ages inspired ensemble that consists of a dress, chemise, and gold chiffon overdress. Right now the chemise is complete, the dress is made (just needs sleeves and eyelets), and the overdress is still in the planning stages.

The second is a brown menswear inspired ensemble that consists of a tunic, doublet, and pants. It started out as a Renaissance themed outfit but it kind of has bits that belong in the 1600’s too… so it won’t be anything resembling historically accurate, but i’ve really enjoyed making it and am happy to have some tailored pieces in my portfolio! Right now the doublet is almost done, it just needs lining and eyelets up the front. I haven’t started on the pants or tunic, but those should be easy by comparison.

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This month I finished my two 18th century pieces, a Robe l’Anglaise which was kind of a fail, and a Chemise a la Reine.  I also completed the chiffon chemise for my Middle Ages outfit, I’ll have a blog post about this up soon. I really love the color, it’s such a lovely rose  tone.

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Now for the heap of things I bought. I’ve been really using up my fabric collection, last month alone I used 25 some yards of fabric, a lot of which have been in my collection since the start of this year.

Fabric is my main source of inspiration and without piles of it around I tend to feel reluctant about using material, I mean what if I run out? I know that is a silly fear because I still have more than enough to make fifteen costumes, but my shelves were looking empty…

Last week Joanns was having a big sale so I decided to get some things to fill the emptiness. This led to three new project ideas, an order from Onlinefabricstore.net, a trip to Michaels and an amazon order.

The first project idea is a Toothless pajama set – he’s the main dragon in my favorite film How To Train Your Dragon. Ever since making my Appa PJ’s I’ve wanted to do something similar with his character and seeing minky fabric 50% off was the push I needed!

 I got three yards of the black double sided ultra cuddle fabric, then ordered one yard of normal minky and one yard of minky stone, which looks like it has a scale pattern! I’m not sure when i’ll start this project – it probably won’t be until the new year, since minky makes a HUGE mess.

My Christmas costume is going to be a huge glitter ball which will be bad enough, I don’t want to deal with black fuzz at the same time!

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I also bought more plaid with a civil war era dress in mind. Last time I was sad because they didn’t have enough to make a dress with, but this time they had a full eight yard bolt, so I grabbed it up! The plaid dresses in the mid 1800’s were usually made from cotton, but this has such great texture and I loved it too much to resist.

I got eight yards of the plaid and a single yard of a matching green.

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 I bought ivory gauze for a tunic (the one that will be paired with my doublet), two yards of glitter chiffon, and a little more than a yard of gold and ivory quilters cotton. These two fabrics were the color inspiration for my Chrsitmas costume idea. I’m not sure how they will be used in the finished piece, but I loved the textures!

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Lastly from Joanns I got a slew of random items. Gold beads, ornaments, grommets, and a pendant for my christmas costume. Brown beads for my Doublet, and scented pinecones. I’m not sure what the pinecones will be used for – I might make them into a headpiece, or spray paint them gold for my christmas costume. Right now they are making my sewing room smell delicious, so i’m not in a big rush to use them!

DSC_0338 Also from onlinefabricstore I bought a bolt of ivory tulle, five yards of organza, and five yards of buckram trim. I needed to spend three more dollars to quality for free shipping, so I got a yard of medium buckram as well!

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Then it was time for Michaels where I got a heap of christmas decorations. I’m planning on making two headpieces and using the rest for my dress.

I got three of these crazy glittery garlands which I love to bits. They are so sparkly!

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And thirteen of fake, miniature, gold, poinsettias. I used some of these last year to make a headpiece and knew I wanted even more this year! I remember when I was younger I was scared of poinsettias because my parents said they were poisonous. At the time I didn’t know the poison was mild, so whenever I saw someone touch one I would be scared they would die.

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 Lastly I got candles and ribbon! The ribbon will be used for lacing and the candles are for a headpiece. That headpiece is going to be a crown and a candelabra. Which is probably a huge fire hazard and may not actually work, but i’m determined to make it look lovely.

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So that’s it! I had planned to put up a making of post but I forgot to get photos of the finished dress, so that will have to wait until Monday.

Thanks for reading!

 
16 Comments

Posted by on November 7, 2014 in Progress Report

 

Progress Report: August 2014

Oh gosh it feels really weird to be more then halfway through the year! I feel like I haven’t gotten much done so far, not nearly as much as I wanted too, but i’ve learned a lot and i’m proud of the things I have done. Hopefully the rest of this year will prove to be even more productive!

This is my second progress report, and this time i’ll be talking about what I got done in July and what I hope to do in August!

Last month I went on about my many works in progress, and i’m happy to say that I completed three projects and made a little bit of progress on two others!

I’ve also started a youtube channel, which has been really scary but exciting! I’ve wanted to make videos for a long time but they scare me a lot, I’m always really concerned about what other people will think and a video seems so much more revealing then a blog post or photoset. So far I’ve enjoyed the editing process a lot and hopefully I can continue with the process.

I updated my portfolio site which should have happened a long time ago, I still have more to do, but it’s in much better shape then it was a month ago! This month i’m going to get wordpress updated and try and get rid of any “page under construction” warnings that have been floating around for ages.

I’d also like to resume my “Workspace Wednesday” series, but do it in videos instead of blog posts.

As for projects, I started and finished the companion piece to my Dewdrop dress and got photos of the completed pieces. This dress went together really quickly and I like how it came out!

I’m also very pleased by the photos, they turned out a lot better then I had hoped they would. I liked these pictures so much that I made a new banner and color scheme for my tumblr – the old one had been around for 7 months so it was time for a change!

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I finished my Isabel de Requesens costume which I will be talking more about in an upcoming blog post! This was the biggest project i’ve taken on since Elsa and it’s been strange not having it around my workroom. I worked on it a little bit every day for almost a month, so I miss it!

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I also started and finished my flower dress! This didn’t come out quite how I had hoped, but I think it’s cute and I’m glad I made it.

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Unfortunately my Regency dress and 18th century stays didn’t get finished. The stays just need the edges bound, then they’ll be done, but that has proved to be far more difficult then I had expected.

I got the bodice of my Regency gown cut and sewn, but i’m still not feeling very excited or committed to this project. It’s definitely not a priority of mine right now but hopefully I’ll make a little more progress this month!

Onto recent purchases! It had been almost two months since I had bought any fabric…which is a long time! The last fabric I purchased was for my birthday, then I put myself on a ban. I was determined to use up materials I already had, and I did, I’ve used nearly 50 yards of material from my stash in two months, which is kind of crazy!

Since July was student month at Joanns I had piles of coupons and decided that the ban should be lifted. I needed organza for an 18th century project, ribbon for lacing, and white/off white thread. Home decor fabrics were on sale too, so I picked up a bit.

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I also go lot’s of fake pearls and ribbon flowers!

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And more fake flowers because they were so cheap and pretty…

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I only started one project this month, and i’m not sure if i’ll finish it.

After making the flower dress I had a ton of left over leaves, so I decided to put together a little jumpsuit using the same technique and the poofy shorts pattern  I made months ago. I’m not sure what I think of this idea or if i’ll ever complete it, but it is technically in progress.

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My goal for the coming months is to show more variety in my work. I think i’m going to create a few less historically focused original designs. I would also like to make several looks inspired by menswear, including a 17th century doublet, court suit (1800s inspired), velvet suit (1800s inspired), and perhaps another frock coat/tunic combo.

I’m really torn about what to make first and which fabrics to use, but I’ve been playing around with designs a lot! I think I might start with a frock coat and matching trousers, but i’m not sure what fabrics and trims to use.

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Here are two combos that I really love, But i’m not sure if they are exciting enough.

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I’ve saved the very best for last – I’ve started work on a butterfly inspired project. It will feature a giant cloak with monarch butterfly wing patterns painted on the interior, a draped chiffon dress, a tulle ball gown, and potentially a bodysuit.

I picked a black velvet and orange batik for the cloak, along with acrylic and watercolor paints which i’ll use to create more depth.

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I’ve decided on two dress designs that i’m really pleased with, unfortunately I couldn’t find the fabrics I need in stores so i’ll need to make an online order and wait a bit before starting on these. In the mean time i’ll be making the patterns and working on the cloak.

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So that’s what I have on the agenda for this month!

Thanks for reading.

 
4 Comments

Posted by on August 4, 2014 in Progress Report

 

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Dewdrop Series – Making a Velvet Cloak

I really love cloaks. They are so dramatic and different from everything in modern fashion. Putting one on makes you feel like a magical princess from another time and world.

So it’s pretty weird that I haven’t actually made one. I made a hooded dress, a dramatic velvet overdress, and even a cape at one point, but never a proper cloak. Horrifying, isn’t it?

But don’t get scared! I’ve resolved the problem and can now officially say that in addition to being a cloak enthusiast, I’ve also made and worn one. And this post is about that process.

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I started with a bunch of doodles. Doodles are the best way to figure out how on earth to make something.

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I actually wanted the hood shape to be very similar to the one made for my Blue Dress, but I wanted to achieve the shape through gathering, which meant I couldn’t reuse the same pattern.

On the bright side, there is a lot more wiggle room when you’re gathering, if something is too big it’s easy to gather it down to be smaller, and if it’s too small you can let it out. Because of this I felt really confident – so confident I decided not to make a mock up.

In my defense I probably wouldn’t have been able to get a good idea of the finished product through a muslin mock up. Velvet is so much heavier then most materials, it reacts really differently and I don’t have anything around that will imitate that.

I also have an extra two yards of velvet, so mistakes were acceptable.

The main pattern pieces looked like this.

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I set aside the brim pattern (which is just a long rectangle) and recut the hood pattern from my ivory damask, which I decided to use as lining. Then I basted these pieces together by using the largest stitch length on my sewing machine.

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Then I set that aside and began work on the brim. The brim is the most important part since it supports the rest of the hood, and it’s also the most visible piece, so it needs to be very nicely finished.

I started by fusing a heavyweight interfacing to the back of it, this gives it more body, and it also prevents the fabric from stretching.

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I cut two strips of my demask material, then I folded them in half and sewed them on to the underside of the velvet brim. These are channels that will eventually house hooping wire, which is what gives the hood shape.

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I could have just rolled the edges and been done with it, but I decided to be fancy and add cute little chiffon ruffles. I used three inch wide strips of chiffon which were folded in half and ironed down, then I ruffled them by hand and stitched them onto each side of the brim.

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Next I prepared the hooping wire. I used bolt cutters to cut two forty-four inch pieces – I later decided these were too long and cut five inches off each piece. These got threaded through the channels I made, and were then set aside.

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Moving on to the  actual hood piece!  There wasn’t that much to do here, I just had to cartridge pleat it down to the right size.

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Once that was done I sewed the brim on and it looked like a hood! Wow.

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Though there was still a bit of work left to do on the hood I decided to take a break and work on the cape instead. Capes are really easy, they are either half circles or rectangles that are gathered down. In this case I was using rectangles, I cut three panels of velvet to make up the cape, after they were sewn together the final measurement was 67″ x 118″ or so.

It’s a real beaut, huh?

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I pinned my hood and cape up on my dress form and it looked like this, already taking shape!

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 I went around ever edge and hemmed them with a three inch seam allowance. I usually use a slip stitch so you can’t see the thread from the other side, but I found that puckered the velvet. So instead I did two rows of a running stitch, and I kind of like that it’s visible from the other side. It gives it character.

I apologize for the lint – I did all the handsewing on the couch and i’m pretty sure my dogs used this as a blanket for part of that time.

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After that was finished the cape needed to be gathered. But first I had to figure out what to gather it onto. I really didn’t want to do the traditional cloak attached to the hood type of thing, because that’s no fun. So I came up with a funky idea that involved these U shaped bits of material. I rolled the edges over and sewed around them, then used a heavyweight interfacing to make these a little more sturdy.

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I gathered my cape down with cartridge pleats and sewed it on.

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Then I did the same thing to my hood.

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I cut away the excess material, then used linen as lining to bind the seam closed. I sewed the edges of the hood piece and cape piece together, so the back ended up looking like this. I think it’s a lot more interesting then the traditional hood back, plus it doubles as a sweat vent in super hot weather.

(is that gross?)

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The last step was attaching hooks and eyes to the cloak and dress so they would stay together. The weight of this thing is pretty crazy, there is no way it would stay on without them.

So that’s that!

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And here are a few of the dress, after trying it on for a few minutes I quickly realized the petticoat will not work – it really needs a pair of pocket hoops underneath it to achieve any sort of shape. But other then that, i’m really pleased with it!

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 So theres that project, all finished! I currently have a few things in the beginning stages, but i’m not sure what my next post will be about. At this point it could be a regency dress, a tulle ball gown, or a Raphael painting i’m trying to bring to life

Thanks for reading!

 
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Posted by on June 25, 2014 in Fashion & Fantasy, The Making Of

 

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